Luxe Vegas

On the one hand it's got slot machines, showgirls and a huge concentration of neon signage; on the other it has 17 Michelin-starred restaurants, luxury skyscraper accommodation, more master sommeliers than any other US city and the world's most opulent shops. Shake this up with 320 days of annual sunshine and you've rolled a winner.

Las Vegas is a 24-hour city, and a little daylight doesn't cramp the nightclub atmosphere. There's a legendary pool scene, so order up a cabana and a cocktail. Mandalay Bay trucked in 1,700 tons of Californian sand for its 11-acre wet world, while Bare at The Mirage is known for ultra-VIP service, swimming dolphins and DJ-spun music under towering palms. At MGM Grand's Wet Republic expect saltwater pools, underwater speakers and tricked-out bungalows.

After night falls, watch the stars at The Bank at Bellagio. Model Bar Rafaeli dropped in on this classy club to soak up the chic, energetic vibe when we visited. Luxor's LAX is star-studded too - Christina Aguilera is an investor. Land a spot on the guest list by booking online at www.luxor.com, or call ahead for a reservation at the club's exclusive Noir Bar.

The city has over 45 spas, but our money is on The Spa at Encore. It's decadent, palatial and brand-new. Non-resort guests can make appointments Monday to Thursday, so book an early treatment then luxuriate all day.

As malls go, The Shoppes at The Palazzo is in a class of its own with 60 new boutiques open till 11pm including Barneys New York, Chloe, Christian Louboutin, Ralph Lauren, Jimmy Choo, Fendi and Bottega Veneta. If you're on a budget, you can still live it up at Las Vegas Premium Outlets and grab discounted bargains at Armani Exchange, Banana Republic, Calvin Klein or Dolce & Gabbana.

Dining ranges from all-you-can-eat buffets to Nobu and Joël Robuchon. For stand-out American favourites, there's Charlie Palmer Steak at The Four Seasons or Rao's at Caesars, which meticulously replicates the century-old Harlem original. And because no one does breakfast as well as the US, make a morning trip to Bouchon. It's the tasty creation of chef Thomas Keller, the man behind Napa Valley's lauded French Laundry.

No trip to Vegas is complete without attempting to top up your bank account with cards, dice, slots or betting. Learn how it's done at The Venetian or The Palazzo where complimentary gaming lessons in blackjack, roulette and craps are available 24 hours a day.

When at last you've earned a restful sleep, Trump is one of the city's newest hotels. Say what you want about his comb-over, but The Donald's properties deliver unrivalled lavishness. A dramatic 64-storey tower encased in 24-karat gold glass, this one offers 50 tasteful penthouses. Here a soak in the bath affords either "the money shot" - a view of the neon-soaked Strip - or a floor-to-ceiling vista of wide desert skies and distant snow-capped mountains.

Get up-to-date info on 020 7367 0979 and at www.visitlasvegas.co.uk. With fares from £369 including taxes, flights depart daily from Gatwick to Las Vegas on Virgin Atlantic, www.virginatlantic.com.

Gamble on love
If you go to Vegas to say "I do" you're in good company. Over 100,000 couples tie the knot here each year. First obtain a marriage license downtown - you'll find easy directions at www.co.clark.nv.us. For traditional nuptials, the chapels at The Venetian and Encore are the swankiest. Short on time? There's the walk-up wedding window at Vegas Wedding Chapel across from the marriage bureau. Or drive down the aisle in a pink '64 Cadillac at Viva Las Vegas, where Elvis performs your favourite golden oldies - as well as your vows.

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