Change of Pace

Birds chatter frenetically, soapy bubbles burst under the weight of rose petals inches from my ear and a wave flops onto our private stretch of Borneo beach. Soaking outdoors in a stone-tiled bath overlooking the South China Sea, it's nearly inconceivable that exactly 24 hours ago I was witnessing Jenson Button scream around Kuala Lumpur's Sepang Circuit at 203km/h. It just goes to show that downshifting from modern life is as easy as flying from Malaysia's capital city to its exotic state of Sabah.

Kuala Lumpur boasts a lively DJ culture, hyper-efficient public transport system, large ex-pat community and super-size shopping malls. It's a modern city with high ambitions, symbolised in the gleaming Petronas Twin Towers, which at 452m, are the tallest twinned buildings in the world.

There's certainly hustle and bustle here, particularly if you coincide your visit with the Malaysian Grand Prix as we did. Spice it up by nipping around the old and flavoursome sections of the city. Little India, Chinatown and Jalan Alor is home to a thrilling selection of hawker stalls offering street food, sidewalk tables and Tiger beer by the litre.

This is no slow, sleepy town, so if you're looking to unwind, plan carefully. The Spa Village at the Ritz-Carlton has been deemed Malaysia's best urban spa for two years' running. Each time we visited we encountered an A-list pop star crashed out on a sun lounger by its pool - clearly a top choice for those seeking a pit stop.

After the bright lights and forward tilt of KL, it was time to apply the brakes. Straddling the equator, Borneo encompasses the world's oldest rainforest; it pre-dates the Ice Age. If you want to make time stand still, this is the place to do it.

With nature hikes by day or night, summit breakfasts, ATV safaris, horseback riding on the beach and bird watching in the jungle, Shangri-La's Rasa Ria Resort in Sabah isn't one of those places that makes you feel you're on lockdown. Get out and about in its 400 acres of nature, which includes a rehabilitation programme that teaches orang-utans to survive in the wild. Whatever you do, don't miss the chance to watch these orphaned apes at play.

Adventures beyond the resort are encouraged. Climb Mount Kinabalu, southeast Asia's highest peak, or travel the Tambalang River aboard a lepa, the traditional wooden sailboat used by local sea gypsies. Our journey down the Klias River afforded a waterborne view of proboscis monkeys and mangroves, while a cruise to the Mengkabong water village gave us a glimpse into Malaysia's answer to Venice. Two-wheeled trips to the local market are available, but we borrowed bikes and a guide to ride into nearby Terayong, a rustic fishing village where life flows as slowly as the river it overlooks.

Rushing from breakfast to my next fun-filled appointment - this time with a kayak for exploring Dalit Bay - I encounter a snail sliming its way across my path. He wasn't the most handsome thing I've seen all week (that honour's saved for a certain F1 driver who moves like quicksilver in a Brawn GP), but he successfully inspired me to slow my step and adjust my speedometer to Borneo time.

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